Remember when you could open this hand 1S (AKxxx,Axx,xx,xxx)? Partner bids 1N promising 6-9 and denying three spades. Cool, there was nothing else to do but pass this hand. Not true once we’ve learned 2/1 auctions. Now the 1N forcing bid could include three card spade support and any hand not worth a game forcing call e.g. up to 11 points. This forces opener to keep the bidding open by rebidding the longest three-card minor, 2C in the example hand above. Yuck, do you really want to suggest xxx as a trump suit? –and on a horrible day have partner lead it against a diamond contract?
The plot thickens when we are also forced to rebid 2C on strong shapely hands that value less than strong jump shift actions: AKxxx, xx, K, AKxxx. Although you’re more than happy to offer up AKxxx as a trump suit, does partner know from your basic sequence that you have almost a strong jump shift hand forcing to game?
The sequence 1S 1N, 2C auctions is one of the least defined auctions in 2/1 systems. This makes decisions as responder very difficult. For example, holding x, Axx, xxx, Qxxxxx one could easily pass AKxxx,Axx,xx,xxx and be satisfied. However, should partner hold : AKxxx, xx, K, AKxxx, you’re now missing a pretty good club slam if you pass.
It takes a lot of partnership work to gauge opener and responder actions in these situations. Imagine an auction such as 1C 1S, 2N. Isn’t opener’s hand defined between a very narrow range? Responder can pretty much gauge the potential of the hand. Not so with 1S 1N, 2C auctions where opener can have an extreme range of high card values and black suit shape.
When I was discussing this confusing situation with my mentor, he mentioned that strong club systems alleviate some of these issues— the powerful hands start with an artificial 1C bid. However. strong club sequences have problems of their own.
So, I offer you some parameters on which 3C bids can be made as responder. Since one could bid 2S on most hands for 5/2 spade fits, the minimum 3C hand should have lots of clubs. Lots of 3C hands contain only one spade. One should also have an ace somewhere in a non-trump suit to cover losers. Here are some examples:
1) x, Axx, xxx, Qxxxxx
2) x, Axx, xxxx, Kxxxx
Unfortunately, since no other bid is available but 3C to show less than game forcing hands, the 3C bid could also contain all invitational hands opposite a minimum that is not appropriate for no trump e.g. x, KQx, Jxx, KQxxxx,
Bottom line, these sequences are difficult, caution should be taken that one doesn’t get too high on trash and not high enough on potential game/slam hands. Bidding is not an exact science –however if you work on these parameters within your partnerships you should get as good at them as some of the other expert players who routinely field these auctions.
1S 1N!, 2d auctions have the same problems as those mentioned above. However, similar auctions that start with 1H are less problematic. As responder one can delineate the “courtesy bump” from the invitational hands with the “impossible 2S” calls, the latter being the stronger.
1) 1H 1N!, 2D 2S! (invitational hand with diamonds)
2) 1H 1N!, 2D 3D (less than an invitational hand with diamonds)
If your partnership is ready, you might try reversing the 1C/1S bid with 5/5 hands or play Bart relays. These treatments truly need partnership discussion and work! In the meantime, I hope the above discussion piece provided the need/reason for such work!
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
Sunday, April 3, 2011
Convention Card Development --Think Like a Bridge Player
Everyone knows teaching and sharing is not about teaching facts (ok, sometimes it is, but most of the time it isn't) . When you've been around A players a long time, you get into their heads and figure out how they think. I hope I share some of how A players think, otherwise, my sharing is really lacking in substance --
So, I offer the development team an effort at providing a structure for convention development and documentation --it's just a start --
Every player over 2000 mp will have their own favorite conventions and versions of them. Because one treatment has helped them one time beat the Lusky team, it will forever be inscribed in their prayer books and you won't be able to talk them out of that particular treatment. Remember, part of partnership development is keeping partner happy and even inferior methods are better than methods that are not discussed.
Whenever a structured partnership contemplates adding a new treatment to their card/system notes, they review the following --always. You should do likewise.
Name of convention and which version
Purpose
In comp strategies/Seat position rules
How to handle the bids the convention replaces
Caveats/Warnings
Example Sequences
Defense when others use the convention
Above that, the partnership usually does a "frequency versus memory overhead" assessment.
If the convention comes up once in five years, and takes 15% of brain power to remember it, well then, one might not want to add the treatment to your methods. That ratio is just too overbearing. One might want to adopt treatments in your early career that are portable to multiple partnerships.
Attached is a very basic attempt to define a drury convention. Telling your partner you want to play "drury" is like telling them you wish to play "bridge". There are so many versions, discussion is truly necessary. Likewise with most other conventions.
Enjoy.
DRURY AGREEMENTS
March 29, 2011
NAME: Reverse One-Way Drury
PURPOSE: To protect against getting too high opposite light third and fourth seat openings. Invitational sequences are replaced by a low-level 2C bid. Bail-outs, game tries and slam tries are based on confirming invitational values by passed hand in support of the opened major.
The drury query is sort of like Stayman. Temporarily, responder is in charge of the auction and opener, like Stayman is required to answer responder’s question. Responder may have passed a hand that has game-going values once a major suit fit is found but it’s up to responder to take the partnership there.
Light major suit openings in third seat are made to protect a passed 11 point hand where the partnership may still have up to 21 to 23 points combined. Light major suit openings are often psyched. Fourth seat openings may be light due to “rule of 15” calculations. Drury protects all of these openings from getting to the three level.
BASIC SEQUENCES-all bids require an alert:
2C by passed hand asks opener about the quality of his/her opening bid. Says nothing about clubs.
Responses: 2M –subminimum, I would not have opened this hand in first/second seat. 2D says nothing about diamonds but promises an opener in first or second seat. 4M I have game values opposite your promised invitational values. 3S slam invite, start Q bidding.
2N by opener is an offer to play, invites 3N.
3N by opener is an offer to play.
Any bid by either side between 2M and 3M is shortness –game try, of course.
IN-COMP TREATMENTS:
Drury is off over direct interference of any type. If you wish to show your invitational values for partner’s opener, use your regular methods (e.g. Q bid, XX’s, etc).
If there is interference at the two level after the 2C drury bid, 2M by opener is the weakest action. Pass is stronger. Opener is allowed to pass a weak hand over three level interference.
TREATMENTS OF BIDS THE CONVENTION REPLACES:
Drury bids replace 2C natural bids by passed hand. Those hands should start with 1N. A jump in clubs by a passed hand is invitational and implies six good clubs.
DEFENSE: Any X of a drury bid is take out for the other suits. Suit bids are natural.
EXAMPLES:
P 1M, 2C! 2D! I have a full opener, a hand I would have opened in first or second chair.
P 1M, 2C! 3M! I have a great hand, slam invite. Unless you have complete dog, please start Q bidding.
P 1M, 2C! 3C! I have a good hand and shortness in clubs. Watcha think responder?
(P) (1M), (2C!) X I have a TO bid of their major, please consider competing partner.
P 1H (1S) 2C natural non forcing.
CAVEATS/WARNINGS: Two-way (2 diamonds) drury gives up a valuable natural bid and allows the opponent easier choices when balancing. The “reverse” in the name is due to the fact that the 2M and 2D bids used to have opposite meanings than what is now mainstream.
If your partner neglects to alert your bid, treat your partner’s response as if you had bid drury. You are not allowed to take an action based on the fact that you did not hear an alert. That is unauthorized information.
So, I offer the development team an effort at providing a structure for convention development and documentation --it's just a start --
Every player over 2000 mp will have their own favorite conventions and versions of them. Because one treatment has helped them one time beat the Lusky team, it will forever be inscribed in their prayer books and you won't be able to talk them out of that particular treatment. Remember, part of partnership development is keeping partner happy and even inferior methods are better than methods that are not discussed.
Whenever a structured partnership contemplates adding a new treatment to their card/system notes, they review the following --always. You should do likewise.
Name of convention and which version
Purpose
In comp strategies/Seat position rules
How to handle the bids the convention replaces
Caveats/Warnings
Example Sequences
Defense when others use the convention
Above that, the partnership usually does a "frequency versus memory overhead" assessment.
If the convention comes up once in five years, and takes 15% of brain power to remember it, well then, one might not want to add the treatment to your methods. That ratio is just too overbearing. One might want to adopt treatments in your early career that are portable to multiple partnerships.
Attached is a very basic attempt to define a drury convention. Telling your partner you want to play "drury" is like telling them you wish to play "bridge". There are so many versions, discussion is truly necessary. Likewise with most other conventions.
Enjoy.
DRURY AGREEMENTS
March 29, 2011
NAME: Reverse One-Way Drury
PURPOSE: To protect against getting too high opposite light third and fourth seat openings. Invitational sequences are replaced by a low-level 2C bid. Bail-outs, game tries and slam tries are based on confirming invitational values by passed hand in support of the opened major.
The drury query is sort of like Stayman. Temporarily, responder is in charge of the auction and opener, like Stayman is required to answer responder’s question. Responder may have passed a hand that has game-going values once a major suit fit is found but it’s up to responder to take the partnership there.
Light major suit openings in third seat are made to protect a passed 11 point hand where the partnership may still have up to 21 to 23 points combined. Light major suit openings are often psyched. Fourth seat openings may be light due to “rule of 15” calculations. Drury protects all of these openings from getting to the three level.
BASIC SEQUENCES-all bids require an alert:
2C by passed hand asks opener about the quality of his/her opening bid. Says nothing about clubs.
Responses: 2M –subminimum, I would not have opened this hand in first/second seat. 2D says nothing about diamonds but promises an opener in first or second seat. 4M I have game values opposite your promised invitational values. 3S slam invite, start Q bidding.
2N by opener is an offer to play, invites 3N.
3N by opener is an offer to play.
Any bid by either side between 2M and 3M is shortness –game try, of course.
IN-COMP TREATMENTS:
Drury is off over direct interference of any type. If you wish to show your invitational values for partner’s opener, use your regular methods (e.g. Q bid, XX’s, etc).
If there is interference at the two level after the 2C drury bid, 2M by opener is the weakest action. Pass is stronger. Opener is allowed to pass a weak hand over three level interference.
TREATMENTS OF BIDS THE CONVENTION REPLACES:
Drury bids replace 2C natural bids by passed hand. Those hands should start with 1N. A jump in clubs by a passed hand is invitational and implies six good clubs.
DEFENSE: Any X of a drury bid is take out for the other suits. Suit bids are natural.
EXAMPLES:
P 1M, 2C! 2D! I have a full opener, a hand I would have opened in first or second chair.
P 1M, 2C! 3M! I have a great hand, slam invite. Unless you have complete dog, please start Q bidding.
P 1M, 2C! 3C! I have a good hand and shortness in clubs. Watcha think responder?
(P) (1M), (2C!) X I have a TO bid of their major, please consider competing partner.
P 1H (1S) 2C natural non forcing.
CAVEATS/WARNINGS: Two-way (2 diamonds) drury gives up a valuable natural bid and allows the opponent easier choices when balancing. The “reverse” in the name is due to the fact that the 2M and 2D bids used to have opposite meanings than what is now mainstream.
If your partner neglects to alert your bid, treat your partner’s response as if you had bid drury. You are not allowed to take an action based on the fact that you did not hear an alert. That is unauthorized information.
Saturday, March 19, 2011
Hand Evaluation --Let me introduce you to the K & R
So someone tells you bridge is fun and you decide you want to learn to play. After all, you like playing cards in general. Your instructor sits down patiently and tells you that Aces are worth four points, Kings are worth three, etc. What he/she usually forgets to tell you, but what you find out later, is that this point count system is supposed to tell you the relative strength of the hand and help you in the bidding. So you learn to "open" hands with more than an average number of points in the deck per deal, usually 13 points.
As you evoke this rather simplistic hand evaluation technique, it becomes clear to you that this method is hopelessly inadequate. First off, barring a ruff, an A will take a trick, always. A king will only take a trick when the A is onside, i.e. half the time and risks getting ruffed. A "Q" is even more likely to become a nothing trick and if it's in rho's suit and lho hasn't raised, it's going to get ruffed out for sure. The proportions 4/3/2/1 just don't seem to be quite right. Thereby a hand such as this: AK,8732,A84,8742 and this: A874,7,87,AK8765 are given the same raw point count but the latter definitely has more trick-taking power. The raw point count technique definitely does not tell the whole story.
So if you're like most developing players, you're introduced to another evaluation strategy: the losing trick count. For most, losing trick count asks you to count one loser in each suit that is missing and A/K/Q. (Most experts make .5 loser adjustments for A vs Q but most "instructors" don't tell us that). Be that as it may, now hands like AK,8732,A84,8742 become eight loser hands and hands like A874,7,87,AK8765 become six loser hands and bidding decisions are made on these evaluations. This evaluation technique accounts for shape, but flattens out the honor cards A/K/Q and ignores J's completely to wit: A654,A65,A65,A65 and Q654,Q65,Q65,Q65 register the same 8 loser count (before the adjustments). Which hand would you rather have?
Thereby neither of the techniques above account for any card less than a J. Which hand would you rather have: AKT9,AT5,T93,K98 or this hand AK32,A32,432,K32? Would you rather have this six loser: A432,2,32,AK5432 or this six loser: AT98,T,T9,AKT9876? Or better yet this one: AJT9,J,JT,AKJ987.
Another example
This is "six" points (raw) but you can get four trick from it: KQJT9
This is "nine" points but only guarantees three tricks AKQ53
Luckily, we have very accomplished bridge players such as Kaplan/Rubens/Goldsmith who help us out of this dilemma. A very helpful tool for hand evaluation is the K & R hand evaluator applet:
http://www.jeff-goldsmith.org/cgi-bin/knr.cgi
I've used it tons as I learned the ins and outs of the trick-taking potential of my hands.
This hand evaluation tool adjusts the raw point count to something more realistic. The evaluator consistently correctly evaluates A/K's versus Q/J's. It accounts for shape as well. (incorporating losing trick count techniques). It adds the dimension of spot cards and adjusts if spot cards are present in long suits as opposed to short suits.
What is also remarkable about this tool is that it evaluates hands that might fit well opposite a possible hand partner may have. For example this hand: AKJT65,A65,A5,98 (K&R (AKJT76 A65 A5 98) = 20.00) is equal in strength to this hand AKQJT,A65,A54,98? (K&R (AKQJT A65 A54 98) = 20.00) Aren't both spade suits worth five tricks in general. Well "No!". Opposite Q, Q4,Q32,432,7432 hand number one will give you six tricks in the spade suit.
Here are some hands to help you test out the above theories. Figure out a raw point count, losing trick count and evaluator count. See what you get and see if the above phenom isn't presented in your outcome data. I can assure you it is!
Have fun.
A654,A65,A65,A65
Q654,Q65,Q65,Q65
AKT9,AT5,T93,K98
K432,QJ5,Q54,KJ5
AK43,T9,7,A78543
J432,Q9,K,KQ543
As you evoke this rather simplistic hand evaluation technique, it becomes clear to you that this method is hopelessly inadequate. First off, barring a ruff, an A will take a trick, always. A king will only take a trick when the A is onside, i.e. half the time and risks getting ruffed. A "Q" is even more likely to become a nothing trick and if it's in rho's suit and lho hasn't raised, it's going to get ruffed out for sure. The proportions 4/3/2/1 just don't seem to be quite right. Thereby a hand such as this: AK,8732,A84,8742 and this: A874,7,87,AK8765 are given the same raw point count but the latter definitely has more trick-taking power. The raw point count technique definitely does not tell the whole story.
So if you're like most developing players, you're introduced to another evaluation strategy: the losing trick count. For most, losing trick count asks you to count one loser in each suit that is missing and A/K/Q. (Most experts make .5 loser adjustments for A vs Q but most "instructors" don't tell us that). Be that as it may, now hands like AK,8732,A84,8742 become eight loser hands and hands like A874,7,87,AK8765 become six loser hands and bidding decisions are made on these evaluations. This evaluation technique accounts for shape, but flattens out the honor cards A/K/Q and ignores J's completely to wit: A654,A65,A65,A65 and Q654,Q65,Q65,Q65 register the same 8 loser count (before the adjustments). Which hand would you rather have?
Thereby neither of the techniques above account for any card less than a J. Which hand would you rather have: AKT9,AT5,T93,K98 or this hand AK32,A32,432,K32? Would you rather have this six loser: A432,2,32,AK5432 or this six loser: AT98,T,T9,AKT9876? Or better yet this one: AJT9,J,JT,AKJ987.
Another example
This is "six" points (raw) but you can get four trick from it: KQJT9
This is "nine" points but only guarantees three tricks AKQ53
Luckily, we have very accomplished bridge players such as Kaplan/Rubens/Goldsmith who help us out of this dilemma. A very helpful tool for hand evaluation is the K & R hand evaluator applet:
http://www.jeff-goldsmith.org/cgi-bin/knr.cgi
I've used it tons as I learned the ins and outs of the trick-taking potential of my hands.
This hand evaluation tool adjusts the raw point count to something more realistic. The evaluator consistently correctly evaluates A/K's versus Q/J's. It accounts for shape as well. (incorporating losing trick count techniques). It adds the dimension of spot cards and adjusts if spot cards are present in long suits as opposed to short suits.
What is also remarkable about this tool is that it evaluates hands that might fit well opposite a possible hand partner may have. For example this hand: AKJT65,A65,A5,98 (K&R (AKJT76 A65 A5 98) = 20.00) is equal in strength to this hand AKQJT,A65,A54,98? (K&R (AKQJT A65 A54 98) = 20.00) Aren't both spade suits worth five tricks in general. Well "No!". Opposite Q, Q4,Q32,432,7432 hand number one will give you six tricks in the spade suit.
Here are some hands to help you test out the above theories. Figure out a raw point count, losing trick count and evaluator count. See what you get and see if the above phenom isn't presented in your outcome data. I can assure you it is!
Have fun.
A654,A65,A65,A65
Q654,Q65,Q65,Q65
AKT9,AT5,T93,K98
K432,QJ5,Q54,KJ5
AK43,T9,7,A78543
J432,Q9,K,KQ543
Thursday, January 13, 2011
A from AK. Ins and Outs explained
Hi Folks,
The above treatment has caused an appreciable amount of problems in my bridge experiences so I thought I’d write a definitive explanation of the subject. Hope you enjoy the discussion.
First, last I checked, K from AK is still standard. So, if you’ve decided to juxtapose this lead agreement, please don’t explain your treatment as “standard”. This almost caused a committee hearing once, so remember, K from AK is standard. If you lead A from AK your treatment is not “standard”.
So why do lots of pairs reverse the standard K from AK treatment? We reverse this lead so we can distinguish the AK from KQ leads. This is extremely helpful when playing standard carding and you hold something like J7. If partner leads the A, you signal high low for the third round ruff (hopefully you have trump). If partner leads the K promising the Q you might not want to blow all your honors on the first trick. At any rate, if partner leads the A promising the K you usually give attitude for the Q or a ruff. If partner leads the K from KQ you give attitude for ruffs or the J but know that you have to wait for one control card to disappear –namely the A. It’s probably with opponents.
In some very specific situations, one often leads the A w/out the K. Now what? Leading A from AK precludes the partnership from knowing whether that A is backed by the K or not. It isn’t often that we lead an unsupported ace except in the following situations:
1) At the five level or above
2) When you’ve bid and raised your suit
3) In the middle of the hand and
4) Against preempts at any level.
Example: Your partner and you have raised hearts. The opponents have violently competed in spades. Wouldn’t you lead the A without the K. Often you would. If you insist on using your A from AK agreement, your partnership will not be able to give attitude towards the K. This has happened several times in my partnerships. Partner led the A, I presumed he didn’t have the K and carded accordingly. Confusion ensued.
In these situations it’s more important to know that your partner has led a blank ace then it is to distinguish K from KQ. Why? As noted above, reversing standard treatments helps you negotiate J7(3) –like holdings. Now tell me, how often is that an issue at the five level or above, when you’ve bid and raised your suit, in the middle of the hand or against preempts. Jacks usually don’t cash in these situations.
Hope this is helpful. There is one other time one leads K form AK. That is when you have AK dry. Partnerships just have to figure that one out from the bidding and from the trump holding.
Have fun.
The above treatment has caused an appreciable amount of problems in my bridge experiences so I thought I’d write a definitive explanation of the subject. Hope you enjoy the discussion.
First, last I checked, K from AK is still standard. So, if you’ve decided to juxtapose this lead agreement, please don’t explain your treatment as “standard”. This almost caused a committee hearing once, so remember, K from AK is standard. If you lead A from AK your treatment is not “standard”.
So why do lots of pairs reverse the standard K from AK treatment? We reverse this lead so we can distinguish the AK from KQ leads. This is extremely helpful when playing standard carding and you hold something like J7. If partner leads the A, you signal high low for the third round ruff (hopefully you have trump). If partner leads the K promising the Q you might not want to blow all your honors on the first trick. At any rate, if partner leads the A promising the K you usually give attitude for the Q or a ruff. If partner leads the K from KQ you give attitude for ruffs or the J but know that you have to wait for one control card to disappear –namely the A. It’s probably with opponents.
In some very specific situations, one often leads the A w/out the K. Now what? Leading A from AK precludes the partnership from knowing whether that A is backed by the K or not. It isn’t often that we lead an unsupported ace except in the following situations:
1) At the five level or above
2) When you’ve bid and raised your suit
3) In the middle of the hand and
4) Against preempts at any level.
Example: Your partner and you have raised hearts. The opponents have violently competed in spades. Wouldn’t you lead the A without the K. Often you would. If you insist on using your A from AK agreement, your partnership will not be able to give attitude towards the K. This has happened several times in my partnerships. Partner led the A, I presumed he didn’t have the K and carded accordingly. Confusion ensued.
In these situations it’s more important to know that your partner has led a blank ace then it is to distinguish K from KQ. Why? As noted above, reversing standard treatments helps you negotiate J7(3) –like holdings. Now tell me, how often is that an issue at the five level or above, when you’ve bid and raised your suit, in the middle of the hand or against preempts. Jacks usually don’t cash in these situations.
Hope this is helpful. There is one other time one leads K form AK. That is when you have AK dry. Partnerships just have to figure that one out from the bidding and from the trump holding.
Have fun.
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
Attitude on Opening Lead --the Plot Thickens
So you've agreed to play "attitude on opening lead". It's a pretty standard treament and most experts can field it even though it may not be their preferred method. I play nothing else, but know that even this standard treatment takes a lot of work.
The comments that follow refer to standard carding against suit contracts. Upside down carding is relatively the same with some minor twists.
So, positive attitude means you want the suit continued, and you "echo" with your suit. Holding 87 and wanting a ruff, or not wanting a shift, you play 8 followed by the 7. If you do not want a ruff, there is no reason to "echo" in the suit. Ask for a switch by playing the 7. If you wish the suit continued and you hold 973. Play the 7 (continue) then play the 9 --now switch.
As per usual in bridge when it concerns carding, the plot thickens fast.
Suppose you hold Ax, Kx, Qx, KQ, or QJ. Now what.
With Ax, you should only be concerned about overtakingthe K --should you overtake and ask for a ruff by returning your small card? Usually that is a good idea. However if you're staring at Jxxx in the dummy and you have a natural trump trick, why would you overtake and ask for a ruff. That might be crashing your tricks in order to set up dummy's suit.
The general principle with Kx and Qx is that one generally should not signal with an honor if there is a reasonable chance that it is needed for tricktaking purposes, i.e., if playing the honor is likely to reduce the number of tricks that you and partner can take.
So, if you hold Kx and partner leads the A, play K only when the K ranks to block the cashing tricks. You don't want to be stuck with Kx in your hand and let declarer run the rest of the tricks. Consider a hand where partner shows 5 good spades and is unlikely to have a quick side entry (for example, dummy has 1st round control of the other suits) and dummy has xxx in spades and top cards in another suit that are likely to provide quick pitches. Or perhaps you are defending 5m at IMPs and can tell that the only tricks for the defense are likely to be in spades. Now it might well be right to play K from Kx so hopefully the defense can cash 3 quick tricks, which would be impossible if one held onto the K.
If you don't see that happening, play low and let partner figure it out. If you pound the K in situations where blocking and cashing are not issues, partner is going to think you have a singleton and underlead. Oooops.
Playing the Q on an opening lead of A or K usually promises a singleton or the J.
So unless you're dire for something to happen, play low from Qx. Partner will underlead if he/she wants you in for a timely return through declarer's values. He/she thinks you hold the J with your Q, or that your Q is singleton.
Most folks echo with Jx if they wish to show partner a doubleton or want a ruff for some reason. Jx's usually don't compress tricks if the J is blown on another top honor. Playing the J from Jx would be appropriate if one wants the suit continued for a ruff, or in a count situation, if playing standard carding. But if one does not want to ruff (from one's natural trump trick, perhaps) or if partner leads the K showing the Q and not the A, and dummy has 10xx, then generally one should not play the J from Jx, because it will cost a trick.
Hope this is helpful. Ask if you have questions.
The comments that follow refer to standard carding against suit contracts. Upside down carding is relatively the same with some minor twists.
So, positive attitude means you want the suit continued, and you "echo" with your suit. Holding 87 and wanting a ruff, or not wanting a shift, you play 8 followed by the 7. If you do not want a ruff, there is no reason to "echo" in the suit. Ask for a switch by playing the 7. If you wish the suit continued and you hold 973. Play the 7 (continue) then play the 9 --now switch.
As per usual in bridge when it concerns carding, the plot thickens fast.
Suppose you hold Ax, Kx, Qx, KQ, or QJ. Now what.
With Ax, you should only be concerned about overtakingthe K --should you overtake and ask for a ruff by returning your small card? Usually that is a good idea. However if you're staring at Jxxx in the dummy and you have a natural trump trick, why would you overtake and ask for a ruff. That might be crashing your tricks in order to set up dummy's suit.
The general principle with Kx and Qx is that one generally should not signal with an honor if there is a reasonable chance that it is needed for tricktaking purposes, i.e., if playing the honor is likely to reduce the number of tricks that you and partner can take.
So, if you hold Kx and partner leads the A, play K only when the K ranks to block the cashing tricks. You don't want to be stuck with Kx in your hand and let declarer run the rest of the tricks. Consider a hand where partner shows 5 good spades and is unlikely to have a quick side entry (for example, dummy has 1st round control of the other suits) and dummy has xxx in spades and top cards in another suit that are likely to provide quick pitches. Or perhaps you are defending 5m at IMPs and can tell that the only tricks for the defense are likely to be in spades. Now it might well be right to play K from Kx so hopefully the defense can cash 3 quick tricks, which would be impossible if one held onto the K.
If you don't see that happening, play low and let partner figure it out. If you pound the K in situations where blocking and cashing are not issues, partner is going to think you have a singleton and underlead. Oooops.
Playing the Q on an opening lead of A or K usually promises a singleton or the J.
So unless you're dire for something to happen, play low from Qx. Partner will underlead if he/she wants you in for a timely return through declarer's values. He/she thinks you hold the J with your Q, or that your Q is singleton.
Most folks echo with Jx if they wish to show partner a doubleton or want a ruff for some reason. Jx's usually don't compress tricks if the J is blown on another top honor. Playing the J from Jx would be appropriate if one wants the suit continued for a ruff, or in a count situation, if playing standard carding. But if one does not want to ruff (from one's natural trump trick, perhaps) or if partner leads the K showing the Q and not the A, and dummy has 10xx, then generally one should not play the J from Jx, because it will cost a trick.
Hope this is helpful. Ask if you have questions.
Monday, September 27, 2010
Two Level Overcalls--Discipline
Hi Folks,
One of our own is frustrated without having partnership discussions about two level overcalls. If you don't set parameters around those bids, it's hard to engage in constructive bidding, and advances may be much of a "potuck" affair. A ZERO in the making, I say.
I would be happy to give you some parameters my experts partners and I use. It might help if you adhere to some of these guidelines.
First, repeat after me, "If you make a two level overcall you have a good suit." (goes for one level overcalls, too actually). Then repeat after me again. "I will not make a two level overcall w/out a good suit".
Ok, so let's define the qualities of a "good suit". I would much rather make a two level overcall on QJT987 than AK543. Why is this? If the layout is foul, one would much rather defend with QJT93 in the suit than AKxx(x). Why is this? Prime cards help bring in no trump contracts and stop quick losers in opponent's suits playing your contracts. However, QJT93 are purely defensive cards. The T for example will be a cool defensive trick but it will do precious little in an opponent's offensive contract. It's like a "gift" from the bridge gods on D; as good as an ace. Value solid intermediate cards and honors when you overcall and be cautious about suits like AJ8532. Yuck.
Remember, when you're making a two level overcall in direct seat you are launching in an "non-fitting" auction where no one has, as of yet, claimed a majority of the points. It may just be that your "fit" is with your lho and he/she may have the remainder of the deck. This is why you need to be relatively solid. I say have this:
1) 10 points non vul
2) Opening hand with six card suit vul.
3) And all together now: "A good suit".
If you have less than that and your partnership and/or teammship gets in trouble, you have no one to blame but yourself. And if partner makes a reasonable raise and you still get in trouble, once again, the blame rests with the dubious overcall.
Sometimes you hear "one needs to stretch bidding 2C over 1D to make it hard for opponents to find their 4/4 major fits". What are you going to do with A54,QJT9,JT98,Q3 when the auction goes 1D (2c)?
"Stretching" is being at the bottom end of the overcall ranges.
Sometimes folks forget this fact. This might not be the last time you get in the auction. Perhaps if you lay quiet now, you know you'll belong in the auction after the opponents have settled in a low level fit aution. Now you can balance and tell partner volumes about your hand due to the delayed entry
Hope this helps.
One of our own is frustrated without having partnership discussions about two level overcalls. If you don't set parameters around those bids, it's hard to engage in constructive bidding, and advances may be much of a "potuck" affair. A ZERO in the making, I say.
I would be happy to give you some parameters my experts partners and I use. It might help if you adhere to some of these guidelines.
First, repeat after me, "If you make a two level overcall you have a good suit." (goes for one level overcalls, too actually). Then repeat after me again. "I will not make a two level overcall w/out a good suit".
Ok, so let's define the qualities of a "good suit". I would much rather make a two level overcall on QJT987 than AK543. Why is this? If the layout is foul, one would much rather defend with QJT93 in the suit than AKxx(x). Why is this? Prime cards help bring in no trump contracts and stop quick losers in opponent's suits playing your contracts. However, QJT93 are purely defensive cards. The T for example will be a cool defensive trick but it will do precious little in an opponent's offensive contract. It's like a "gift" from the bridge gods on D; as good as an ace. Value solid intermediate cards and honors when you overcall and be cautious about suits like AJ8532. Yuck.
Remember, when you're making a two level overcall in direct seat you are launching in an "non-fitting" auction where no one has, as of yet, claimed a majority of the points. It may just be that your "fit" is with your lho and he/she may have the remainder of the deck. This is why you need to be relatively solid. I say have this:
1) 10 points non vul
2) Opening hand with six card suit vul.
3) And all together now: "A good suit".
If you have less than that and your partnership and/or teammship gets in trouble, you have no one to blame but yourself. And if partner makes a reasonable raise and you still get in trouble, once again, the blame rests with the dubious overcall.
Sometimes you hear "one needs to stretch bidding 2C over 1D to make it hard for opponents to find their 4/4 major fits". What are you going to do with A54,QJT9,JT98,Q3 when the auction goes 1D (2c)?
"Stretching" is being at the bottom end of the overcall ranges.
Sometimes folks forget this fact. This might not be the last time you get in the auction. Perhaps if you lay quiet now, you know you'll belong in the auction after the opponents have settled in a low level fit aution. Now you can balance and tell partner volumes about your hand due to the delayed entry
Hope this helps.
Monday, August 16, 2010
Maximal Doubles-A Discussion
Hi all,
Doubles, man their multi-facited purposes never quit, do they? We have doubles
that in some sequences actually mean "penalty" you're not making this --or at least not with overtricks :). Some doubles are "take out" meaning "opponents are attempting to land in a suit, or have landed in a suit fit, perhaps we can find our fit this way". There are those doubles that are lead direct and control showing.
However, there is one double that my advanced partnerships use routinely having a meaning different from all of the above--this double (maximal) means "game try, are you at the max or min of your limited bid?"
These maximal double sequences are mostly used over major suit raises when the opponents have taken away a level of bidding under your suit so that natural suit-asking game tries are not possible.
For example. You bid 1S on AKxxx,A,QJTxx,xx. Lefty bids 2H and partner raises, 2S. Rho bids 3H and now what. Wouldn't you like to make a 3D game try? Well, if you try that you're going to get a director call. 3D is below 3H so instead of using the double for penalty in this sequence, we use the double as an "all purpose game try".
I play these sequences with most of my established partnerships but usually I have brief discussion about whether maximal doubles are on if the opponents have not bid and raised their suit. For example, has the auction gone 1S 2S (3H)? or 1S (2H) 2S (3H)? Some of my partnerships play maximal doubles in the latter situation and not the first. Be on the same page, discuss. If not, get ready for -730 at imps. Don't ask me how I know :-).
If you agree to play maximal doubles, remember they are usually "on" in overcall situations also i.e. 1D (1H) 2D (2H), 3D. Now X is not penalty of diamonds but an all purpose game try in hearts. Make sense?
Hope this is helpful, please ask if you have further questions.
Doubles, man their multi-facited purposes never quit, do they? We have doubles
that in some sequences actually mean "penalty" you're not making this --or at least not with overtricks :). Some doubles are "take out" meaning "opponents are attempting to land in a suit, or have landed in a suit fit, perhaps we can find our fit this way". There are those doubles that are lead direct and control showing.
However, there is one double that my advanced partnerships use routinely having a meaning different from all of the above--this double (maximal) means "game try, are you at the max or min of your limited bid?"
These maximal double sequences are mostly used over major suit raises when the opponents have taken away a level of bidding under your suit so that natural suit-asking game tries are not possible.
For example. You bid 1S on AKxxx,A,QJTxx,xx. Lefty bids 2H and partner raises, 2S. Rho bids 3H and now what. Wouldn't you like to make a 3D game try? Well, if you try that you're going to get a director call. 3D is below 3H so instead of using the double for penalty in this sequence, we use the double as an "all purpose game try".
I play these sequences with most of my established partnerships but usually I have brief discussion about whether maximal doubles are on if the opponents have not bid and raised their suit. For example, has the auction gone 1S 2S (3H)? or 1S (2H) 2S (3H)? Some of my partnerships play maximal doubles in the latter situation and not the first. Be on the same page, discuss. If not, get ready for -730 at imps. Don't ask me how I know :-).
If you agree to play maximal doubles, remember they are usually "on" in overcall situations also i.e. 1D (1H) 2D (2H), 3D. Now X is not penalty of diamonds but an all purpose game try in hearts. Make sense?
Hope this is helpful, please ask if you have further questions.
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